Dharamsala

12-06-2009

I have now been in Dharamsala a little over a week. It is in so many ways different from Rishikesh yet the motive, theme or objective is the same between the two places, spirituality. I managed to catch a ride with an Australian couple who also were on the same train as me from Rishikesh to Chaki Bank so I got in to Dharamsala or I should say McLeod Ganj as early as 5:30 am. I am actually not in proper Dharamsala as it is only, in my opinion, another busy “city” in India. There are other more remote areas here like Bhagsu and Tipa but McLeod Ganj is the exile home of His Holiness the Dali Lama. I noticed a significantly difference in the vibration energy as I arrived to McLeod Ganj. It felt more like a light and airy energy here. I can best describe it as a more peaceful and lighthearted energy as compared to the grounded deeper and earthy and strong energy like the roots of a tree in Rishikesh. As the day progressed and the light came out I saw visually how beautiful the surroundings are here, in this what Indians call “Hill Station” town. I am told that we are about 6600ft above sea level here which is about 2000m for my European friends. The mountain tops are filled with snow and peak up behind the town valley creating a majestic background view. It is possible to hike up to these beautiful steep mountain tops. It will require at least one day hike and some dedicated energy and a strong will power to get to the top.

There are only really 3-4 main streets in this town and upon strolling them I instantaneously noticed less or actually virtually no cows on the streets and the stray dogs, they are all quite healthy looking in comparison to the dogs in Rishikesh. Later I found out that the Tibetan have a different relationship with dogs and cows than the Indians. Though it is not like in the west, the Tibetans generally treat their animals better and tend to feed the dogs as well as the cows. Indians have a tendency to feed the cows as they are holly to them and then if something is left the stray dogs may get some. Since the Buddhist philosophy is to treat animals like as if they were or are your mother they have deep respect for the animals. The irony though is that most Hindu Indians are vegetarian for spiritual reasons as they believe in reincarnation, the same philosophy holds true for the Tibetans, however, the Tibetans are not generally vegetarians. I was quite taken back by this when I heard this from a Tibetan. The Tibetan man stated that even H.H. the Dali Lama is not a vegetarian. He eats meat from time to time to get protein as the diet here is not as well rounded as in the rest of the world, this man said to me. I cannot vouch for this statement as it was not in a book or a quote from His Holiness. I am merely paraphrasing what I was told. I think that my confusion become obvious to the man that was telling me the story because he continued to explain as to make sure I understood the reasoning behind them eating meat. He stated that in the rouged mountainous terrain in Tibet which is remote and away from civilization in the winter months especially, but also throughout the year it is hard to grow vegetables and the only source of food for the Tibetans often becomes their Yaks which is like the cow to an Indian. It gives them milk skin for warm clothing and meat for nutrition. I can understand if there is nothing else to eat then of course they have to eat the meat but what about the Karma of killing a living being that is so big in Buddhism, and what about Tibetans now living abroad that are not nomads or herders anymore? Again the man must have read my mind or seen my perplexed face because he continued and stated that as long as the act of killing the animal was not done by the Tibetan the Karma would not fall on them? Hmm interesting, kind of like being the driver of the runaway car from the bank robbery would be. So, technically they did not rob the bank only enjoyed the goods, same as not killing the animal, therefore not getting the bad karma, but still enjoy eating it? Well I decided that this theory was a bit convoluted and I will have to investigate further if it really matters to me? I am for sure NOT attached to it one way or the other but I know Swami Puja and Bhagawati his assistance (at the Parmath Nikethan Ashram where I just spent a month) would be, as their philosophy is that our global warming and mass starvation problem is a direct result of the meat industry in the world. A issue I am not about to write about now but for those interested I have a book and articles I can refer you to from the UN so you can read up on this. I am certain those of you that are not yet vegetarian would after reading these either turn to that or at least start seriously considering it. Again my friends, I am not attached to what you eat this is only my experience and observation of what I was told about the Tibetans that struck me as a bit odd considering how strong their religious believes are . I want to make sure no one feels I am telling them what to do. I would be sad to lose friends over this…ha ha….

Besides that meat issue  I have found everything else pretty transparent about the Tibetan culture. I am staying at a Monastery where the monks are very friendly and sharing about their culture and practices. I wake up every morning and do my own Sadana (mediation practice) and then by 6:30 am join them for their morning practice. It is beautiful and again quite different from the Sanskrit Hindu or Gumukh Sikh mediation. They have a deep mono tone that I think takes years for the minks to learn to chant in. It is very soothing and calming to the mind and soul. I found myself often leaving after 1-2hrs of listening to them in a need of a nap. Today I took a nap as it is Sunday and it is the Sabbath day they say so I guess in a way I took that literally  and decided to sleep in after the morning routine. I felt the rest to be very deep and my mind is peaceful can calm.

My daily routine here is to do the mediations and then take the local bus or Jeep ride (12 people minimum in one jeep) which is normally jam packed like sardines to lower Dharamsala then change bus to the post office and then a little walk to get to Dharamsala Dog Rescue location. I then help them with what is needed. So far moving bricks for the new Kennel that they are building and releasing dogs that have been fixed (neutered and spayed) or help with walk ins. It was a very tuff day before yesterday because Blackie one of the dogs that the boys (workers) had been working to rescue after a sever car accident got run over again and died in front of us on the operating table. Blackie had fully recovered from the first injury and had therefore returned to the shop owners that feed her daily which is on a very narrow and small street not really that exposed fast cars. The shop owner had called to let the boys know and they went to get Blackie and brought him to the clinic. We were trying to inject a pain killer and one of the technicians tried to resuscitate but the he had probably sever internal bleeding and took his last breath. I tried to encourage him to stay with us but then of course I realized I was the one wanting him to survive but, his time was over. I of course lost it for a while angry at the careless drivers, the system, the unfairness of the inequalities of the world, the politicians and my pathetic attempt to do something that I think helps and so on. After my internal battle I could only conclude with that I do not have the answers only I am capable of doing my best to what I think is a better future of the people I am around, the animals and myself. I surrendered to that life is life and what I witnessed is not even a glimpse of the true atrocities that take place consistently in the world.

Blackie will be remembered by me and a few of the workers but that is it. Likewise my father will be remembered only by us his family and his sphere as long as we are alive and that is it. This made me ponder about if leaving a mark in this world is important for the importance of leaving a legacy or for once Dharma or the Karma one hopes to sow? From the prospective of a spiritual seeker I guess it is possible to state that most scriptures will in some form or the other state that the only path to salvation is “service” seva in Sanskrit. Same philosophy I feel Guru Sri Sri Ravi Shankar and other Swamis or Gurus will and have stated that if you think you have it bad take the time to serve someone in a more of a need than you and immediately you will realize how to be grateful. Or like Guruji said once, if you are depressed spend some time with a dog or baby and you will forget to be depressed because children and dogs give you so much unconditional love it is impossible to remain sad about your own situation. Same as Guru Nanak states about Divine love, remember the universal creator and shower yourself with the infinite love that exist between you and the creator. Serve others and stay connected with those who know how to offer unconditional love is the way to make some sense of this life that we live. This is what I understand the message to be from many spiritual paths. H.H. Dali Lama has a beautiful way to make lemonade of all the lemons he personally has been given and his people. He is yet another great example of SEVA. I can respect and understand people’s need to have children a bit better now as they are the best teachers of unconditional love and away to leave a positive (hopefully) mark in is world. What I am still struggling with at times is all the abandoned and abused children, animals and the inequalities between the different parts of the world. I dare not even think of the aspect of war and all that is brought from politics and greed. My head is trying to come up with a way to do MY PART to bridge the gap in the world. How can I truly best serve and know that it is pure and with the right intentions. I know that this trip for me was not only to deepen my own spiritual growth and to allow for the courageous  self to immerge again, but also to find my place in the world that I feel I can authentically identify with and feel serves my Dharma best. No pressure…ha ha. I just will stay committed to continue meditating, doing my yoga and being in silence so that I can do the required work.  The trip is still young…Still majority of it ahead of me.

Got side tracked there, what is new??? So to continue with my daily routine after spending the day with the doggies I take the busses and jeep back to McLeod Ganj and at 4:30pm teach a nun at the roof top of the volunteer organization building (there are no classrooms available for us). The nun’s name is Chosang and she is a political refugee as she served 9 months in prison for shouting long live the Dali Lama and Free Tibet when the Chinese Invaded her nunnery in Tibet. She is 37 years old and desires to learn English so that she can be more mobile in India. Right now she feels she can only stay in McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala area because people speak Tibetan here. She does not speak Hindi either and has been in India since she was 19 years old around 18 years in India. She is very sweet and respectful so it is a delight to teach her. I see that she puts in a great effort and seems very eager to learn more and more every day. I enjoy our individual time together as we can also chat about life and family. I have gathered that she is alone here and that all her siblings and family are in still in Tibet.

After about 5:30-6:00pm I go and have dinner somewhere and this week so far I have attended the Tibetan Opera as it is the 50th anniversary of the exile community in India and the Tibetan Performing Arts Institute. I lucked out and have seen performances 3 nights here as well as attended a lectures from an ex-prisoner who told his story. I normally make it back to my Monastery around 10:00pm or so. Yesterday I was invited to have tea at a store owner’s home. She befriended me after I bought a warm sweater from her the other day and now she wants me to visit her sister in Lhasa. Her name is Sonam and her cousin Tsewang who own’s the shop they are both very loving and sweet. They are going to teach me the essentials of Tibetan language so that I can manage while I am there. Of course one day I have also managed to go and visit the Temple of H.H. the Dali Lama and his residence form the outside. They day I was there they were performing a fire ceremony that is only performed 4 times a year so it was a blessing for me to be part of that. H.H the Dali Lama is not here as I just missed him. I knew of this prior to me arriving that he would have left. Though I love him and respect him, this visit is more for me and my inner journey. I was not at all attached of wither he would be here or not. I know so many spiritual masters are there to aid us on our journeys, and I for one have been graced with many living masters in this life time. I feel my work and journey is more inward right now so I am pleased that this place is not so crowded with tourists right now and that it is very peaceful and a light atmosphere. I am able to have more personal time and reflective time. Next time I come I will come to see H.H. Dali Lama.

Ok enough for today I have uploaded some pictures from Rishikesh I am behind on the pictures. I will try to get some of Dharamsala pictures up next. Maybe I can do that on my stop in between for a day in Delhi on the Dec 15th prior to me flying out to Nepal on Dec 16th.

Peace and love for now….