Monday, February 22, 2010
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Back from Tibet
01-17-19
Hey guys I am now back in Kathmandu since yesterday but again sick and in bed. Down with a cold really bad throat and worst of all the stomach issue is back….Not sure if the parasites or whatever I have ever died. I am thinking they laid eggs or well simply came back through something else I ate. I do NOT like this part of the journey. I wish I had my permanent healing book here so I could read about what thought process of mine keeps causing stomach issues and cold…if you have the book and know let me know my email is jasmine_rence@yahoo.com or comment here :-).
I wrote throughout the Tibet trip but could not post anything as the blog pages are blocked so is face book, twitters and many other sites. I will get back to all my FB friends wall comment, emails and so on as soon as my belly will allow me to sit up for a while. I am posting below in chronological order what I I wrote throughout the trip in Tibet. Hope it is not too detailed or boring. I just have no energy to rewrite or concise it right now and this way you guys can read something at least while I am recovering…. Again sorry if it is too much I have not even read through it so typos and ect again sorry…. Pictures will come up as soon as I can promise.
01-06-10
Hey Guys,
In Mandala Hotel right outside Jokhan Temple (a Buddhist temple built in the 7th century and one of the most significant pilgrimage destinations for Tibetans) in Lhasa. It is 2am in the morning here and I can’t sleep. My room is literally opposite to the Temple and I can hear people still at this hour doing their prayers and round around the kora. They basically are doing sun-salutations (for those who are yoga people around the whole temple) i.e. Standing up and then laying flat on the floor and then taking a step to the hand position and then repeating the whole thing. It is great exercise but at 2 am and throughout the night??? The devotion the Tibetans have to their faith is impressive and very inspiring considering that they are people faced with many physical and political challenges. I am completely without words and do not know how to describe either Tibet to you guys or how to explain the energy I feel being in Lhasa, outside this beautiful and so important temple for the Tibetans, which is completely guarded and watched 24 hrs by the Chinese military and police. There is a HUGE contradiction between the two cultures and I can definitely feel the controlling force of the Chinese government and the underlying tone of oppression of the Tibetans throughout the country side and here in the city.
Let me begin by saying that the last 5 days getting to Lhasa have been emotionally the most difficult part of my journey so far. I feel that it has been a roller coaster as I have gone from being severely ill as I never recovered from the food posing from the trek (causing me to feel down in general) to being very conflicted about the Tibetan lifestyle and environment that the Chinese have created. Granted that the cold plays a big role in how people behave. I know this from growing up in Sweden where the Swedish people practically change from Jekyll to Hyde from summer to the winter. So I understand that the Tibetans are probably not themselves considering outside temperature is between -10 to -25 Celsius and that since their housing is completely without central heating (just an open fire stove normally in the center of the home) they have the right to be a bit grumpy and anti-social. However, even knowing all this intellectually, it does not change how I have been affected by the harshness that they live in and the lack of what we consider in the west to be the basic needs. I cannot comprehend completely how they can survive the temperatures, the high altitude (most of Tibet is at least 3500m or above and we have passed areas as high as 5200m), the poverty, the cold and the oppression by the Chinese. Throughout the drive to Lhasa I have witnessed them sitting outside their homes trying to stay warm in the sun, herding their sheep and yaks so they can feed, fixing their little homemade looking tractors or motor cycles in the streets or some even begging in the streets of their towns just to get some food for the day. Typically most of them used to be nomads but now they have been forced into living in homes staying in one place which makes it hard for their animals to graze and challenging to adjust to for them as they are used to moving around. I have also seen dogs in this horrendous cold weather (living outdoors of course) and cats trying to survive, again I am not sure how they manage. Being cold to the bone myself I have questioned what the heck I am doing paying for this torture where as the many of the Tibetans have no option as they are born into this lifestyle.
I find that I keep wondering how life can be so lopsided in this world and what is the purpose of it all? I know many faiths will refer to Karma as an answer; I still find it hard for me to watch some of this and then try to make sense of my own life. I have to admit that I cannot sleep because my thoughts are wondering in million directions. I know that I have to do something to change the consciousness of my mind and others to try to bridge the gap in the world or at least something that contributes to more than just me and my life. I know this to be true because being aware and having witnessed the imbalances of the world several times over and over again I feel I have a responsibility I can no longer turn a blind eye to. This holds true especially if I believe in that we are all one and that everyone is a mere reelection of me and that we are all energetically connected. I feel I cannot let the sense of my ego and the “I” concept separate me anymore. I can no longer just be a by standard and expect someone else to take the responsibility. What I struggle with is the desire to run back home and create a beautiful cocoon around me with my things, career, friends and luxury items like a warm home, hot shower, food that is something different from just flavorless potatoes or rice and forget about all this. I feel well I must have good karma and have done something right to be born to have an opportunity for a comfortable lifestyle so why am I not enjoying it instead of sitting here “suffering”(not true obviously as I am indoor in a bed and I obviously have had food for the day unlike many here) and wondering about other people’s life….What the heck am I doing and why????? As I am writing this I can now hear someone singing their prayers out loud around the temple and at this point it is about 2:30am and freezing cold outside. Again their devotion to their faith is so impressive and probably what allows them to remain sane and so strong.
I accept that I need to find peace from within and that so many Tibetans and people in the world do just that in order to survive or make sense of their existence. “Liberation or peace” is a commitment of lifetimes, I am personally clear on this concept. I also accept the relationship between cause and effect i.e. Karma. With that being said, I know that the umbrella nonprofit organization that I have set into motion is a good start for me to take action and sow good karmic seeds even maybe I hope anyway? By the way I have decide on the name now…Sewadars which means Servants in Gurumukhi and the tag line is “Barriers of compassion without borders….” I am open to feed back on this of course. I think I am just having a hard time today keeping the focus and the internal peace because I am getting attached to that I want things to be different. I keep thinking of friends, family and people that I hope will get involved with Sewadars or people that have somehow affected me in my life causing me on to this path. It is amazing how when you are lying down the mind is flooded with thoughts and “to do lists” and then when you get up to write them down or formulate them only a fraction of them get put into motion. I have been very good since the last few weeks to journal and also record my dreams like Dr. Laurel highly recommended before I left for the trip. I feel this will of course aid me in deciphering my subconscious minds feedback to all that is going on around me. I am leaving a lot of time for mediation and reflection in general, today just happened to be a day that I was a bit more in the conscious mind resulting in somewhat attachments and causing the mind to be scattered. I wanted to share this as well as I do not want to give the impression that this trip is all fabulous and without any emotional challenges for me.
01-07-10
Another interesting day to say the least… The day started well with great porridge which is A LOT BETTER than what we have been getting everyday so far for breakfast (dry bread or egg (which I do not eat being a vegetarian)). I was in great spirits after breakfast leaving the hotel for Drepung Monastery (founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa. The 2nd through the 4th Dali Lama lived around this monastery in Ganden Palace which was built by the 2nd Dali Lama. It is the largest monastery in Tibet which at one point had 10,000 monks in it but now with the Chinese control only max 1000 are allowed. At this monastery, lies the tombs of the 2nd through the 4th Dali Lama as well.
On the way to the monastery my guide told me there was a problem with me staying on a week because the agency in Nepal had not made the payment. I told him how could this be as I had made all arrangements and had a confirmation with me. I sent an email to the Nepalese agency to have them sort it out during lunch. They must then have contacted the Tibetan company because then my guide came back and said yes you can stay but only at the hotel and the shops around it. He said it is not allowed for tourists to stay roaming around alone and that the Nepalese agency should have known this before sending me to Tibet. I was told I could hot leave Barkhor market area (which is about 2km-4km radius at the most) as I was being watched and if they caught me everyone would be in sever trouble. I was not allowed to see Lhasa even only the area around the hotel and I certainly could not visit any locals, talk to them or go to their homes. The Barkhor market area is beautiful with Tibetan shops and people come from all over the country here to walk around the Jokhang temple the most interesting kora (pilgrimage circuit) in Lhasa , however a week of just watching the same thing, not being able to really inter act with the locals and being in a similar situation to house arrest but rather an “area” arrest did not sound appealing to me at all. I was really upset with this news I explained to them that my ticket has been booked for the 16th and that I was told I could visit my friends and roam around in Lhasa. Nothing seemed to matter to my guide as he kept saying you need to talk to my boss. This caused me of course to be a bit disappointed and upset as I had made arrangements to visit Sonam’s (Tibetan girl whom I met in Dharamsala and became good friends with) sister and see Lhasa with her.
As the day progressed I got bits and pieces of information from my guide regarding the matter the only consistency was that it was going to be a problem with me staying on. Finally it was concluded that I needed to talk to his boss in order to sort it out. This has now been arranged for tomorrow so we will see the outcome of this whole confusion and poor communication. To add to the matter it did not help that the other tour companions shared with me that they were able to stay 2 days longer and did not pay for the guide nor the room at nearly the rate I was. They were shocked at what rate I was paying a day to just stay in the hotel without any other services. I decided I was going to address this as well with the agent but for now the most important thing was to figure out what I can do and not do while I am in Tibet alone. The Chinese control is REALLY getting to me I cannot imagine what the Tibetans feel like living like this daily?? They are constantly watched and everywhere I go it does not take but 5-10min before I see a guard or a building with guards around it. There are so many just outside my hotel and on the roof opposite to my hotel watching the Barkhor area and the Jokhang Temple, they are also literally looking right through my window.
The afternoon today we spent at Sera Monastery where normally the debating between the monks go on daily, about topics related to Buddhism. This monastery is also a beautiful and majestic in its own right with strong pillars, statues 6-10 ft high in clay and some in gold. When we got there unfortunately we were told that the Chinese were doing their annual check of the monastery which constituted of checking the number of monks that lived there, the condition of the monastery, statues and other items of interest to them. This meant that there was no debate going on and there were a few rooms and some area that was locked up that we normally would be able to visit. Hmmmm….interesting day control, control, and some more control. Not liking it very much to say the least. Our guide entered into one area we could normally visit and he was shooed off by a guard and a door was closed in front of us. I could feel the frustration the guide felt in not to be able to show us and he said “this is how it is here” as I walked by him after this occurrence. Everyone in the group were all good sport about it and we saw what we could and then went back to the Barkhor area. The day proceeded to be interesting as on the way back we witnessed a storm of police cars outside some buildings and immediately the guide said “do not take any pictures there is a problem here so do not walk this side on your own or there will be problems for you and us”. We asked what was going on and he said he did not know but that something was happening and we needed to stay away from this area and if it got worst that we needed to stay in our rooms tonight. Yeah, like I said not liking it very much and certainly not feeling good with all the energy shifts throughout the day. I felt maybe I needed to just leave as there is really not much I can do with all this stuff going on and the restrictions imposed on the tourists and of course the strict control of the local Tibetans. As we got back we all disbursed for some time. I went back to the room and decided to let the day roll off have a good dinner and meet with the agency owner the next day and see what can be done. Tomorrow is another day :-)
01-09-10
Ok did not have energy or time to really write yesterday, though it was a great day, with some more confusion and some more excitement and disappointment. This time the “drama” was a bit personal and more good and exciting news towards the end of the day. So where to begin? Ah, the meeting with the owner of the agency. So yes, we had a talk and it was basically the grim news of that I could do practically NOTHING for 7days and that he could not understand why I was told I would be able to visit my friends. I said “What will I do a whole week here then? The extra week I decided to stay was specifically so I could visit with my friends and see just the local area in Lhasa with them.” He said “I have no idea what you can do, it is better if you go back tomorrow and we write the agency in Nepal and you get refunded the money.” Hm?? I was faced with making a decision feeling in two minds. I was sad actually as I so wanted to see Tibet more like I have had the fortune to with India and Nepal, in it’s local and natural setting rather than just as a tourist with the control of the military i.e the Chinese rules. I realized sitting in front of this stern man that there was no two ways about that I could do practically nothing and I was paying pretty hefty price for that. I tried to address the price difference between my package and the other tourists that were staying for 2 days and then he kind of got more assertive and aggressive about that this is the way business people make their money e.c.t and that he only got an x amount from the agency in Nepal and the room was at a certain rate and so on. I decided the whole thing was turning into a mess and I should leave early. I can’t do anything here and I am paying an enormous amount to do nothing. So during lunch the guide and I changed the ticket for me to leave tomorrow. At lunch time on the 8th this was the verdict and I made peace with it after realizing that I should be grateful I made it in to Tibet at least. I had known that there was a chance that I would not even make it in to the country as the Chinese deny the permits some times and this was the case in later part of 2009.
The morning of the 8th we went to visit The Potala, “Lhasa’s cardinal landmark and one of the wonders of Eastern architecture” as described by the Tibet lonely planet. It is a large palace situated on a hill, overlooking the city which was built by the 5th Dali Lama and I think not sure which King?? Think 33rd but don’t quote me . When we arrived to it I was mesmerized by it’s size and beauty. This once home of the 14th Dali Lama (the current famous one that everyone knows of and many love) was so impressive, massive and different from his current humble home in Dharamsala in India (which I just visited) that I could not help but think, how can he be so humble and satisfied where he is now, knowing what he once used to live this GIANT BEAUTY? Once we got inside the palace it just kept getting more and more beautiful and rich with different rooms of mediation, studying chambers and tombs of the 5th Dali Lama through 13th Dali Lama skipping the controversial 6th Dali Lama because he escaped and his body was never found. These tombs were huge with at least 3000kg gold and diamonds, ruby and all sorts of decorative stones on them. I have never seen so much gold in one place and such enormous tombs before. It was a sight and worth the massive climb up to see. One interesting note to observe was that in the describing of the different rooms and narration the 14th Dali Lama was referred to a few times and I thought that was odd considering the Chinese deny his existence and do not recognize him at all. Not sure what that is all about? I really loved the Potala just like millions before me have and after me will I hope. The afternoon of the day was not so shabby either as we visited the Jokhang Temple opposite to our hotel. It only has about 17 monks according to our guide and is a major monastery, Kora , that the Tibetans walk around as a pilgrimage circuit. They do one around the whole city of Lhasa, then one around Potala and then the last around Jokhang. 3 is the magic number and I have seen them literally walk 24hours as far at the time of the day and some even do all the koras standing up and then laying down, up and down as seen on some of the pictures. The walk around Lhasa takes about 2-4 hrs depending on the physical shape the person according to my guide and of course if you walk it verses the up and flat on ground circuit that many do. The temple just like all the other sites we have visited is beautiful but controlled by guards and the Chinese. The view of Barkhor square and the circuit are great and in the afternoon the sun felts so warm heating us up. Another monastery that used to be great and inhabited by many monks prior to 1959.
In the evening I was able to also meet with Jampa Sonam’s sister with the guide. He translated for me as we sat in my hotel room explaining to her that my plan had changed due to circumstances of the situation. He also told her that I could not visit her home or go anywhere with her or everyone involved would get in trouble and that the agency would be shut down. She was also sad and kept insisting that she wanted me just to visit for a while and take photos of her home and video for Sonam and that her other sister that is sick is also there for a few days visiting. I think the guide finally got a soft heart for the situation and said that if she took me only for 30min I could go home with her and that she had to promise that then we would come back to the hotel or a restaurant in Bharkhor and sit there for a limited amount of time to finish our meeting. I ended up going to her home and it was so touching to see the situation and then later even talking to Sonam on the phone in India. It was evident that she was sad and missing her family wishing she could be there rather than have to go through me. I think Soman has not seen anyone in her immediate family for more than 13years. I tried to assure her they were ok but her one sister is ill so I know it was hard for her. Sonam also felt upset that I could not spend the week with her sister as planned. I told her I would spend the maximum time that evening with her sister that I could. I was trying to make her feel like I would try to compensate or her not being able to be there but I am not sure that comforted her much?
The whole day kept getting more and more interesting as I felt everything was kind of just turning in a direction I did not wish for. I was not sure how to react to the emotional aspect of Sonam’s family situation, me not being able to stay in Tibet as planned and most of all the Chinese structure and control. It is so strange how the events of the day kept unfolding and it got more interesting after I called the agent in Nepal to inform him that I was coming back to Kathmandu a week early. He told me that he had to break a surprise and tell me now that I had changed the ticket that Oscar is in China either already in the train from Beijing or will be taking the train from there to surprise me in Tibet. I nearly fell of my chair…..WHAT oh no, I changed my ticket to leave early we are going to miss each other. How can this be? Why did you not tell the agency in Tibet I though? Well apparently the agent did but the agency never told me that it was Oscar only asked me if a friend was visiting… I am expecting no friend so of course I say no way anyone is coming to see me. The day really could not be getting more complicated? What to do next??? The agent in Nepal said he would call Oscar to see where he was coming for sure. I was to call back in 30 min to see and I did but Oscar’s phone was off so we were not able to find any information. I decided that I would try to change the ticket the next day back to the original departure and be contented with the “area arrest “ now that Oscar is coming all the way to see me.
I am not sure what to expect with this surprise visit as most of you now that we are separated and that we are taking some time apart. This is confusing and yet of course very sweet, wonderful, and crazy a t the same time. My tour mates were all so excited and kept saying it is so cool and like in the movies very romantic. One said just follow your heart don’t think about it and so on. I am not sure if Oscar is actually on his way or when he gets her? At this point I hope he makes it as I am here for a week really just waiting for him to arrive. Though the surprise got blown a bit it still feels like a surprise because I still don’t know if he is actually coming or when. If is coming because he was working in China and thought just to come by then his plans could have changed easily as they do when it comes to his work and I could be here the whole week just walking Barkhor market area going NUTS. This feels a bit like when he found me in Bombay India based on my towel hanging outside one New Year when he had come to surprise visit me. I am not sure what to make of this except that he never fails to amaze me with his surprises and decisions :-).
PS! This morning I did go to the airport with some of the people in my tour that were leaving and I did manage to change my ticket back to the 16th t departure date again for free, which was even more amazing considering I must have seemed like a confusing person changing the ticket the day before for a different date and then changing it back again to the original date only 2 hours prior to the flight leaving. I spent the day taking it easy and trying to just catch up on writing and reflecting how I feel about this situation. I was in the room most of the day looking at the 100s of people making the Kora circuit around Jokhang temple.
01-10-10
Today and yesterday felt a bit like the waiting game for Oscar. I tried to call his cell phone to confirm if he was really coming but the phone was off. I tried to examine what would I say if I saw him, do I really want him to come, what does this mean but came up with no “intellectual” or “analyzed “answers that made sense. I decided just to continue my personal explorations and experiences in Lhasa and pretend like Oscar was not coming. I would continue to see what I could despite the restrictions imposed by the Chinese and the trip was still about me myself and I :-). I had nice conversations with 2 of the tour mates that stayed on for lunch regarding, religion, spirituality, life love and so on. It was nice to hang with them and get to know them on a more personal level now that our group had shrunk from 7 to 4 including me. They were only staying on until Monday, 2 days more, in Lhasa and continuing to China where as I was staying a whole more week. These last two days I have been a bit of a bad girl not following instructions very well as it is seriously impossible to stay just in Barkhor area only. Me and Guallime decided new would take the risk and venture out to Norbalinka the summer palace and park of the 14th Dali Lama. This required a walk past the Potala Palace and definitely an area way outside Barkhor Market. I was hesitant at first but decide you only live once and after all what could the Chinese do put us un prison for being “bad” tourists for wanting to visit a Palace???? Well lets put it this way, my logic was very in favor of not being stuck and I reasoned as a westerner would thinking the worst that can happen is that we would be told to go back to the “approved” visiting area. Guallime felt the same way and we were confident that we could sneak by the military unnoticed as long as we looked like nice, non-political, innocent and ignorant tourists. At first I was a bit nervous especially when we ran right in to some guards after leaving the Barkhor area. I though oh, shit we are busted we are walking right into their arms. They looked at us but ultimately they just walked right by us not saying anything to us or really looking like they were wondering were our guide was or why we were alone. I realized then that this was a situation of where the left side does not know what the right side is doing. So basically, all these rules the tourist agency keeps referring to, that are supposedly implemented by the Chinese government, may or may not exist. If they do exist then it is evident not everyone in the military are aware of them or the rules that are implemented are completely misunderstood by the tourist companies which in turn are unfortunately using scare tactics and other means by which to control the tourists and the financial benefits they can gain from this supposedly requirement to need a guide to go everywhere. Anyhow Guallime and I were left alone we stayed low key and enjoyed Norbalinka Palace and a good Schuan lunch close to Potala even though no one in the restaurant could speak English. It was fun and an interesting experience. I have to say VERY VERY few speak English in Tibet and China so it was challenging too and it would have been crazier if I did not have the lonely planet because a few phrases were in it in Mandarin and in Tibetan.
As Guallime and I walked back around 3:45 pm towards the Barkhor market I spotted a funny looking Mexican and sure enough it was Oscar. He was strolling the street looking like a tourist trying to figure things out. I told Guallime there is Oscar and I yelled to get Oscar’s attention. The first thing that came out of my mouth was “you made it”. I was still really surprised to see him and I am sure I had that look as I did not seriously think he was going to come. It was nice to see him. Well guys the rest of his stay is privilege information as I too am not sure how to explain it or describe it. No seriously speaking, we had a good time for 5 days but not without flaw. There was emotions, talks and discussions leading to sever pain on my side and anger on his. This whole separation thing is confusing but also something we know we need in order to continue our personal growth. I was confused why he came but it was simple as he stated it he did not want to think too much of anything just come and tell me he loves me. I have decide as well not to make too much of the interesting surprise and the time together in Tibet. Tibet of all places on this planet??? I will process it as I need and hopefully he will do the same. Oscar had a lot to tell about his 10days to get there though as he managed visa, permit and train ticket from Shanghai all just as he arrived to each place. He flew to Chicago to get China visa then to California to get the flight to Shanghai there he bought the train and had some interesting experience which I will let you guys read his blog if he makes one of how he managed the permit to enter in to Tibet. I was entertained to say the least hearing about his truly last minute journey through China to get to Tibet. He did not come for work only to see me, so I was happy that I changed the flight to wait for him.
01-16-10
The last days in Lhasa were powerful for me because I have been wanting to do the Kora (circuit) around the city, around Potala and Jokhnang as I wished to do this for my personal spiritual purpose. I thought it would not be possible because of me not being allowed to leave the Barkhor area. Well I got to do the circuits and I did them with Oscar which I could not have believed would actually come into fruition ever. Imagine the two of us meditating on these spiritual walks around the city and the monasteries in Tibet each holding prayer beads. Never thought it would happen. We also had the fortune that because it is the Tibetan New Year coming up many of the farmers and locals were doing their pilgrimage in Lhasa so we walked right into some monasteries with them and one particular was one in which everyone got blessed in a ceremony preformed by a lama which included getting holly water pored over our heads and blessed with a dorjee ( a “blessing tool” not sure how to describe it?) at the same time as the lama was ringing the Tibetan bell that goes with the dorjee . It was a unique experience to say the least….I was left alone by my guide for the last week and so was Oscar by his so we really had a lot of opportunities to mingle with the local people and him and I did not stick to their instructions either especially since I got the experience and Oscar did too from his train ride to Lhasa that as long as we did not involve in any political issues we could roam in Lhasa as our permit did indicate Lhasa and not BARKHOR MARKET…. We concluded that the guides were paranoid as well as restrictive for other reasons as well. My last week ended up being a little more free to see the city and meet with the locals than I initially thought it would be. I am happy I stayed for this experience as well since it was a quite different experience from being a tourist with a tour guide. I definitely want to come back to Tibet and see the more rural side and do a large Kora around one of the holy mountains as well as see their colorful and festive festivals of yak and horse racing. I have no regrets about the trip it was what it needed to be and I do want to come back again.
Hey guys I am now back in Kathmandu since yesterday but again sick and in bed. Down with a cold really bad throat and worst of all the stomach issue is back….Not sure if the parasites or whatever I have ever died. I am thinking they laid eggs or well simply came back through something else I ate. I do NOT like this part of the journey. I wish I had my permanent healing book here so I could read about what thought process of mine keeps causing stomach issues and cold…if you have the book and know let me know my email is jasmine_rence@yahoo.com or comment here :-).
I wrote throughout the Tibet trip but could not post anything as the blog pages are blocked so is face book, twitters and many other sites. I will get back to all my FB friends wall comment, emails and so on as soon as my belly will allow me to sit up for a while. I am posting below in chronological order what I I wrote throughout the trip in Tibet. Hope it is not too detailed or boring. I just have no energy to rewrite or concise it right now and this way you guys can read something at least while I am recovering…. Again sorry if it is too much I have not even read through it so typos and ect again sorry…. Pictures will come up as soon as I can promise.
01-06-10
Hey Guys,
In Mandala Hotel right outside Jokhan Temple (a Buddhist temple built in the 7th century and one of the most significant pilgrimage destinations for Tibetans) in Lhasa. It is 2am in the morning here and I can’t sleep. My room is literally opposite to the Temple and I can hear people still at this hour doing their prayers and round around the kora. They basically are doing sun-salutations (for those who are yoga people around the whole temple) i.e. Standing up and then laying flat on the floor and then taking a step to the hand position and then repeating the whole thing. It is great exercise but at 2 am and throughout the night??? The devotion the Tibetans have to their faith is impressive and very inspiring considering that they are people faced with many physical and political challenges. I am completely without words and do not know how to describe either Tibet to you guys or how to explain the energy I feel being in Lhasa, outside this beautiful and so important temple for the Tibetans, which is completely guarded and watched 24 hrs by the Chinese military and police. There is a HUGE contradiction between the two cultures and I can definitely feel the controlling force of the Chinese government and the underlying tone of oppression of the Tibetans throughout the country side and here in the city.
Let me begin by saying that the last 5 days getting to Lhasa have been emotionally the most difficult part of my journey so far. I feel that it has been a roller coaster as I have gone from being severely ill as I never recovered from the food posing from the trek (causing me to feel down in general) to being very conflicted about the Tibetan lifestyle and environment that the Chinese have created. Granted that the cold plays a big role in how people behave. I know this from growing up in Sweden where the Swedish people practically change from Jekyll to Hyde from summer to the winter. So I understand that the Tibetans are probably not themselves considering outside temperature is between -10 to -25 Celsius and that since their housing is completely without central heating (just an open fire stove normally in the center of the home) they have the right to be a bit grumpy and anti-social. However, even knowing all this intellectually, it does not change how I have been affected by the harshness that they live in and the lack of what we consider in the west to be the basic needs. I cannot comprehend completely how they can survive the temperatures, the high altitude (most of Tibet is at least 3500m or above and we have passed areas as high as 5200m), the poverty, the cold and the oppression by the Chinese. Throughout the drive to Lhasa I have witnessed them sitting outside their homes trying to stay warm in the sun, herding their sheep and yaks so they can feed, fixing their little homemade looking tractors or motor cycles in the streets or some even begging in the streets of their towns just to get some food for the day. Typically most of them used to be nomads but now they have been forced into living in homes staying in one place which makes it hard for their animals to graze and challenging to adjust to for them as they are used to moving around. I have also seen dogs in this horrendous cold weather (living outdoors of course) and cats trying to survive, again I am not sure how they manage. Being cold to the bone myself I have questioned what the heck I am doing paying for this torture where as the many of the Tibetans have no option as they are born into this lifestyle.
I find that I keep wondering how life can be so lopsided in this world and what is the purpose of it all? I know many faiths will refer to Karma as an answer; I still find it hard for me to watch some of this and then try to make sense of my own life. I have to admit that I cannot sleep because my thoughts are wondering in million directions. I know that I have to do something to change the consciousness of my mind and others to try to bridge the gap in the world or at least something that contributes to more than just me and my life. I know this to be true because being aware and having witnessed the imbalances of the world several times over and over again I feel I have a responsibility I can no longer turn a blind eye to. This holds true especially if I believe in that we are all one and that everyone is a mere reelection of me and that we are all energetically connected. I feel I cannot let the sense of my ego and the “I” concept separate me anymore. I can no longer just be a by standard and expect someone else to take the responsibility. What I struggle with is the desire to run back home and create a beautiful cocoon around me with my things, career, friends and luxury items like a warm home, hot shower, food that is something different from just flavorless potatoes or rice and forget about all this. I feel well I must have good karma and have done something right to be born to have an opportunity for a comfortable lifestyle so why am I not enjoying it instead of sitting here “suffering”(not true obviously as I am indoor in a bed and I obviously have had food for the day unlike many here) and wondering about other people’s life….What the heck am I doing and why????? As I am writing this I can now hear someone singing their prayers out loud around the temple and at this point it is about 2:30am and freezing cold outside. Again their devotion to their faith is so impressive and probably what allows them to remain sane and so strong.
I accept that I need to find peace from within and that so many Tibetans and people in the world do just that in order to survive or make sense of their existence. “Liberation or peace” is a commitment of lifetimes, I am personally clear on this concept. I also accept the relationship between cause and effect i.e. Karma. With that being said, I know that the umbrella nonprofit organization that I have set into motion is a good start for me to take action and sow good karmic seeds even maybe I hope anyway? By the way I have decide on the name now…Sewadars which means Servants in Gurumukhi and the tag line is “Barriers of compassion without borders….” I am open to feed back on this of course. I think I am just having a hard time today keeping the focus and the internal peace because I am getting attached to that I want things to be different. I keep thinking of friends, family and people that I hope will get involved with Sewadars or people that have somehow affected me in my life causing me on to this path. It is amazing how when you are lying down the mind is flooded with thoughts and “to do lists” and then when you get up to write them down or formulate them only a fraction of them get put into motion. I have been very good since the last few weeks to journal and also record my dreams like Dr. Laurel highly recommended before I left for the trip. I feel this will of course aid me in deciphering my subconscious minds feedback to all that is going on around me. I am leaving a lot of time for mediation and reflection in general, today just happened to be a day that I was a bit more in the conscious mind resulting in somewhat attachments and causing the mind to be scattered. I wanted to share this as well as I do not want to give the impression that this trip is all fabulous and without any emotional challenges for me.
01-07-10
Another interesting day to say the least… The day started well with great porridge which is A LOT BETTER than what we have been getting everyday so far for breakfast (dry bread or egg (which I do not eat being a vegetarian)). I was in great spirits after breakfast leaving the hotel for Drepung Monastery (founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa. The 2nd through the 4th Dali Lama lived around this monastery in Ganden Palace which was built by the 2nd Dali Lama. It is the largest monastery in Tibet which at one point had 10,000 monks in it but now with the Chinese control only max 1000 are allowed. At this monastery, lies the tombs of the 2nd through the 4th Dali Lama as well.
On the way to the monastery my guide told me there was a problem with me staying on a week because the agency in Nepal had not made the payment. I told him how could this be as I had made all arrangements and had a confirmation with me. I sent an email to the Nepalese agency to have them sort it out during lunch. They must then have contacted the Tibetan company because then my guide came back and said yes you can stay but only at the hotel and the shops around it. He said it is not allowed for tourists to stay roaming around alone and that the Nepalese agency should have known this before sending me to Tibet. I was told I could hot leave Barkhor market area (which is about 2km-4km radius at the most) as I was being watched and if they caught me everyone would be in sever trouble. I was not allowed to see Lhasa even only the area around the hotel and I certainly could not visit any locals, talk to them or go to their homes. The Barkhor market area is beautiful with Tibetan shops and people come from all over the country here to walk around the Jokhang temple the most interesting kora (pilgrimage circuit) in Lhasa , however a week of just watching the same thing, not being able to really inter act with the locals and being in a similar situation to house arrest but rather an “area” arrest did not sound appealing to me at all. I was really upset with this news I explained to them that my ticket has been booked for the 16th and that I was told I could visit my friends and roam around in Lhasa. Nothing seemed to matter to my guide as he kept saying you need to talk to my boss. This caused me of course to be a bit disappointed and upset as I had made arrangements to visit Sonam’s (Tibetan girl whom I met in Dharamsala and became good friends with) sister and see Lhasa with her.
As the day progressed I got bits and pieces of information from my guide regarding the matter the only consistency was that it was going to be a problem with me staying on. Finally it was concluded that I needed to talk to his boss in order to sort it out. This has now been arranged for tomorrow so we will see the outcome of this whole confusion and poor communication. To add to the matter it did not help that the other tour companions shared with me that they were able to stay 2 days longer and did not pay for the guide nor the room at nearly the rate I was. They were shocked at what rate I was paying a day to just stay in the hotel without any other services. I decided I was going to address this as well with the agent but for now the most important thing was to figure out what I can do and not do while I am in Tibet alone. The Chinese control is REALLY getting to me I cannot imagine what the Tibetans feel like living like this daily?? They are constantly watched and everywhere I go it does not take but 5-10min before I see a guard or a building with guards around it. There are so many just outside my hotel and on the roof opposite to my hotel watching the Barkhor area and the Jokhang Temple, they are also literally looking right through my window.
The afternoon today we spent at Sera Monastery where normally the debating between the monks go on daily, about topics related to Buddhism. This monastery is also a beautiful and majestic in its own right with strong pillars, statues 6-10 ft high in clay and some in gold. When we got there unfortunately we were told that the Chinese were doing their annual check of the monastery which constituted of checking the number of monks that lived there, the condition of the monastery, statues and other items of interest to them. This meant that there was no debate going on and there were a few rooms and some area that was locked up that we normally would be able to visit. Hmmmm….interesting day control, control, and some more control. Not liking it very much to say the least. Our guide entered into one area we could normally visit and he was shooed off by a guard and a door was closed in front of us. I could feel the frustration the guide felt in not to be able to show us and he said “this is how it is here” as I walked by him after this occurrence. Everyone in the group were all good sport about it and we saw what we could and then went back to the Barkhor area. The day proceeded to be interesting as on the way back we witnessed a storm of police cars outside some buildings and immediately the guide said “do not take any pictures there is a problem here so do not walk this side on your own or there will be problems for you and us”. We asked what was going on and he said he did not know but that something was happening and we needed to stay away from this area and if it got worst that we needed to stay in our rooms tonight. Yeah, like I said not liking it very much and certainly not feeling good with all the energy shifts throughout the day. I felt maybe I needed to just leave as there is really not much I can do with all this stuff going on and the restrictions imposed on the tourists and of course the strict control of the local Tibetans. As we got back we all disbursed for some time. I went back to the room and decided to let the day roll off have a good dinner and meet with the agency owner the next day and see what can be done. Tomorrow is another day :-)
01-09-10
Ok did not have energy or time to really write yesterday, though it was a great day, with some more confusion and some more excitement and disappointment. This time the “drama” was a bit personal and more good and exciting news towards the end of the day. So where to begin? Ah, the meeting with the owner of the agency. So yes, we had a talk and it was basically the grim news of that I could do practically NOTHING for 7days and that he could not understand why I was told I would be able to visit my friends. I said “What will I do a whole week here then? The extra week I decided to stay was specifically so I could visit with my friends and see just the local area in Lhasa with them.” He said “I have no idea what you can do, it is better if you go back tomorrow and we write the agency in Nepal and you get refunded the money.” Hm?? I was faced with making a decision feeling in two minds. I was sad actually as I so wanted to see Tibet more like I have had the fortune to with India and Nepal, in it’s local and natural setting rather than just as a tourist with the control of the military i.e the Chinese rules. I realized sitting in front of this stern man that there was no two ways about that I could do practically nothing and I was paying pretty hefty price for that. I tried to address the price difference between my package and the other tourists that were staying for 2 days and then he kind of got more assertive and aggressive about that this is the way business people make their money e.c.t and that he only got an x amount from the agency in Nepal and the room was at a certain rate and so on. I decided the whole thing was turning into a mess and I should leave early. I can’t do anything here and I am paying an enormous amount to do nothing. So during lunch the guide and I changed the ticket for me to leave tomorrow. At lunch time on the 8th this was the verdict and I made peace with it after realizing that I should be grateful I made it in to Tibet at least. I had known that there was a chance that I would not even make it in to the country as the Chinese deny the permits some times and this was the case in later part of 2009.
The morning of the 8th we went to visit The Potala, “Lhasa’s cardinal landmark and one of the wonders of Eastern architecture” as described by the Tibet lonely planet. It is a large palace situated on a hill, overlooking the city which was built by the 5th Dali Lama and I think not sure which King?? Think 33rd but don’t quote me . When we arrived to it I was mesmerized by it’s size and beauty. This once home of the 14th Dali Lama (the current famous one that everyone knows of and many love) was so impressive, massive and different from his current humble home in Dharamsala in India (which I just visited) that I could not help but think, how can he be so humble and satisfied where he is now, knowing what he once used to live this GIANT BEAUTY? Once we got inside the palace it just kept getting more and more beautiful and rich with different rooms of mediation, studying chambers and tombs of the 5th Dali Lama through 13th Dali Lama skipping the controversial 6th Dali Lama because he escaped and his body was never found. These tombs were huge with at least 3000kg gold and diamonds, ruby and all sorts of decorative stones on them. I have never seen so much gold in one place and such enormous tombs before. It was a sight and worth the massive climb up to see. One interesting note to observe was that in the describing of the different rooms and narration the 14th Dali Lama was referred to a few times and I thought that was odd considering the Chinese deny his existence and do not recognize him at all. Not sure what that is all about? I really loved the Potala just like millions before me have and after me will I hope. The afternoon of the day was not so shabby either as we visited the Jokhang Temple opposite to our hotel. It only has about 17 monks according to our guide and is a major monastery, Kora , that the Tibetans walk around as a pilgrimage circuit. They do one around the whole city of Lhasa, then one around Potala and then the last around Jokhang. 3 is the magic number and I have seen them literally walk 24hours as far at the time of the day and some even do all the koras standing up and then laying down, up and down as seen on some of the pictures. The walk around Lhasa takes about 2-4 hrs depending on the physical shape the person according to my guide and of course if you walk it verses the up and flat on ground circuit that many do. The temple just like all the other sites we have visited is beautiful but controlled by guards and the Chinese. The view of Barkhor square and the circuit are great and in the afternoon the sun felts so warm heating us up. Another monastery that used to be great and inhabited by many monks prior to 1959.
In the evening I was able to also meet with Jampa Sonam’s sister with the guide. He translated for me as we sat in my hotel room explaining to her that my plan had changed due to circumstances of the situation. He also told her that I could not visit her home or go anywhere with her or everyone involved would get in trouble and that the agency would be shut down. She was also sad and kept insisting that she wanted me just to visit for a while and take photos of her home and video for Sonam and that her other sister that is sick is also there for a few days visiting. I think the guide finally got a soft heart for the situation and said that if she took me only for 30min I could go home with her and that she had to promise that then we would come back to the hotel or a restaurant in Bharkhor and sit there for a limited amount of time to finish our meeting. I ended up going to her home and it was so touching to see the situation and then later even talking to Sonam on the phone in India. It was evident that she was sad and missing her family wishing she could be there rather than have to go through me. I think Soman has not seen anyone in her immediate family for more than 13years. I tried to assure her they were ok but her one sister is ill so I know it was hard for her. Sonam also felt upset that I could not spend the week with her sister as planned. I told her I would spend the maximum time that evening with her sister that I could. I was trying to make her feel like I would try to compensate or her not being able to be there but I am not sure that comforted her much?
The whole day kept getting more and more interesting as I felt everything was kind of just turning in a direction I did not wish for. I was not sure how to react to the emotional aspect of Sonam’s family situation, me not being able to stay in Tibet as planned and most of all the Chinese structure and control. It is so strange how the events of the day kept unfolding and it got more interesting after I called the agent in Nepal to inform him that I was coming back to Kathmandu a week early. He told me that he had to break a surprise and tell me now that I had changed the ticket that Oscar is in China either already in the train from Beijing or will be taking the train from there to surprise me in Tibet. I nearly fell of my chair…..WHAT oh no, I changed my ticket to leave early we are going to miss each other. How can this be? Why did you not tell the agency in Tibet I though? Well apparently the agent did but the agency never told me that it was Oscar only asked me if a friend was visiting… I am expecting no friend so of course I say no way anyone is coming to see me. The day really could not be getting more complicated? What to do next??? The agent in Nepal said he would call Oscar to see where he was coming for sure. I was to call back in 30 min to see and I did but Oscar’s phone was off so we were not able to find any information. I decided that I would try to change the ticket the next day back to the original departure and be contented with the “area arrest “ now that Oscar is coming all the way to see me.
I am not sure what to expect with this surprise visit as most of you now that we are separated and that we are taking some time apart. This is confusing and yet of course very sweet, wonderful, and crazy a t the same time. My tour mates were all so excited and kept saying it is so cool and like in the movies very romantic. One said just follow your heart don’t think about it and so on. I am not sure if Oscar is actually on his way or when he gets her? At this point I hope he makes it as I am here for a week really just waiting for him to arrive. Though the surprise got blown a bit it still feels like a surprise because I still don’t know if he is actually coming or when. If is coming because he was working in China and thought just to come by then his plans could have changed easily as they do when it comes to his work and I could be here the whole week just walking Barkhor market area going NUTS. This feels a bit like when he found me in Bombay India based on my towel hanging outside one New Year when he had come to surprise visit me. I am not sure what to make of this except that he never fails to amaze me with his surprises and decisions :-).
PS! This morning I did go to the airport with some of the people in my tour that were leaving and I did manage to change my ticket back to the 16th t departure date again for free, which was even more amazing considering I must have seemed like a confusing person changing the ticket the day before for a different date and then changing it back again to the original date only 2 hours prior to the flight leaving. I spent the day taking it easy and trying to just catch up on writing and reflecting how I feel about this situation. I was in the room most of the day looking at the 100s of people making the Kora circuit around Jokhang temple.
01-10-10
Today and yesterday felt a bit like the waiting game for Oscar. I tried to call his cell phone to confirm if he was really coming but the phone was off. I tried to examine what would I say if I saw him, do I really want him to come, what does this mean but came up with no “intellectual” or “analyzed “answers that made sense. I decided just to continue my personal explorations and experiences in Lhasa and pretend like Oscar was not coming. I would continue to see what I could despite the restrictions imposed by the Chinese and the trip was still about me myself and I :-). I had nice conversations with 2 of the tour mates that stayed on for lunch regarding, religion, spirituality, life love and so on. It was nice to hang with them and get to know them on a more personal level now that our group had shrunk from 7 to 4 including me. They were only staying on until Monday, 2 days more, in Lhasa and continuing to China where as I was staying a whole more week. These last two days I have been a bit of a bad girl not following instructions very well as it is seriously impossible to stay just in Barkhor area only. Me and Guallime decided new would take the risk and venture out to Norbalinka the summer palace and park of the 14th Dali Lama. This required a walk past the Potala Palace and definitely an area way outside Barkhor Market. I was hesitant at first but decide you only live once and after all what could the Chinese do put us un prison for being “bad” tourists for wanting to visit a Palace???? Well lets put it this way, my logic was very in favor of not being stuck and I reasoned as a westerner would thinking the worst that can happen is that we would be told to go back to the “approved” visiting area. Guallime felt the same way and we were confident that we could sneak by the military unnoticed as long as we looked like nice, non-political, innocent and ignorant tourists. At first I was a bit nervous especially when we ran right in to some guards after leaving the Barkhor area. I though oh, shit we are busted we are walking right into their arms. They looked at us but ultimately they just walked right by us not saying anything to us or really looking like they were wondering were our guide was or why we were alone. I realized then that this was a situation of where the left side does not know what the right side is doing. So basically, all these rules the tourist agency keeps referring to, that are supposedly implemented by the Chinese government, may or may not exist. If they do exist then it is evident not everyone in the military are aware of them or the rules that are implemented are completely misunderstood by the tourist companies which in turn are unfortunately using scare tactics and other means by which to control the tourists and the financial benefits they can gain from this supposedly requirement to need a guide to go everywhere. Anyhow Guallime and I were left alone we stayed low key and enjoyed Norbalinka Palace and a good Schuan lunch close to Potala even though no one in the restaurant could speak English. It was fun and an interesting experience. I have to say VERY VERY few speak English in Tibet and China so it was challenging too and it would have been crazier if I did not have the lonely planet because a few phrases were in it in Mandarin and in Tibetan.
As Guallime and I walked back around 3:45 pm towards the Barkhor market I spotted a funny looking Mexican and sure enough it was Oscar. He was strolling the street looking like a tourist trying to figure things out. I told Guallime there is Oscar and I yelled to get Oscar’s attention. The first thing that came out of my mouth was “you made it”. I was still really surprised to see him and I am sure I had that look as I did not seriously think he was going to come. It was nice to see him. Well guys the rest of his stay is privilege information as I too am not sure how to explain it or describe it. No seriously speaking, we had a good time for 5 days but not without flaw. There was emotions, talks and discussions leading to sever pain on my side and anger on his. This whole separation thing is confusing but also something we know we need in order to continue our personal growth. I was confused why he came but it was simple as he stated it he did not want to think too much of anything just come and tell me he loves me. I have decide as well not to make too much of the interesting surprise and the time together in Tibet. Tibet of all places on this planet??? I will process it as I need and hopefully he will do the same. Oscar had a lot to tell about his 10days to get there though as he managed visa, permit and train ticket from Shanghai all just as he arrived to each place. He flew to Chicago to get China visa then to California to get the flight to Shanghai there he bought the train and had some interesting experience which I will let you guys read his blog if he makes one of how he managed the permit to enter in to Tibet. I was entertained to say the least hearing about his truly last minute journey through China to get to Tibet. He did not come for work only to see me, so I was happy that I changed the flight to wait for him.
01-16-10
The last days in Lhasa were powerful for me because I have been wanting to do the Kora (circuit) around the city, around Potala and Jokhnang as I wished to do this for my personal spiritual purpose. I thought it would not be possible because of me not being allowed to leave the Barkhor area. Well I got to do the circuits and I did them with Oscar which I could not have believed would actually come into fruition ever. Imagine the two of us meditating on these spiritual walks around the city and the monasteries in Tibet each holding prayer beads. Never thought it would happen. We also had the fortune that because it is the Tibetan New Year coming up many of the farmers and locals were doing their pilgrimage in Lhasa so we walked right into some monasteries with them and one particular was one in which everyone got blessed in a ceremony preformed by a lama which included getting holly water pored over our heads and blessed with a dorjee ( a “blessing tool” not sure how to describe it?) at the same time as the lama was ringing the Tibetan bell that goes with the dorjee . It was a unique experience to say the least….I was left alone by my guide for the last week and so was Oscar by his so we really had a lot of opportunities to mingle with the local people and him and I did not stick to their instructions either especially since I got the experience and Oscar did too from his train ride to Lhasa that as long as we did not involve in any political issues we could roam in Lhasa as our permit did indicate Lhasa and not BARKHOR MARKET…. We concluded that the guides were paranoid as well as restrictive for other reasons as well. My last week ended up being a little more free to see the city and meet with the locals than I initially thought it would be. I am happy I stayed for this experience as well since it was a quite different experience from being a tourist with a tour guide. I definitely want to come back to Tibet and see the more rural side and do a large Kora around one of the holy mountains as well as see their colorful and festive festivals of yak and horse racing. I have no regrets about the trip it was what it needed to be and I do want to come back again.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Back from Everest Base Camp....
HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!!!! Love you a ton and miss all of you….
Yeah!!! I made it back alive… :-) seriously trekking to Everest Base Camp in the winter month was physically the most challenging thing I have done so far in my life. People were not joking when they said it would be FREEZING and hard to breath at 18000 plus feet i.e 5550m. Wow! That is all I can say…..On Christmas eve I was at Everest Base Camp and Christmas day in Kalaphater which is soooo much more beautiful than base camp and actually a bit higher as well 5555m vs 5364m. I am happy to have made it back to Kathmandu for New Years Eve. I am off again in a day to Tibet on Jan 2nd for 2 weeks.
I am amazed at how hard it was but how strong I stayed throughout it until of course my luck changed on the last day and I got sever food poisoning. I know my guide was really worried about how I would get back as the trek was only 3 hours average (me and him 2hrs ) and I took almost 4 ½ so he knew something was really wrong. I was so dehydrated and sick that I almost fainted a few times. I also did get some altitude sickness on the way to E.B.C on the 8th day of the trek, but it was controllable and not so drastic. There were several people that me an my guide saw and heard about that had to either come down by helicopter to Kathmandu due altitude sickness or that had to return back down by foot. I fell 3 times (because my bag was a pain in the butt) and each time I had to watch out so as to not get hurt or falling down a ridge, but other than that the altitude sickness was luckily very minor for me. It was an amazing trip but again the hardest thing physically I have ever done. I knew it was going to be hard but I do not think I really comprehended what mental strength it would take to make it. So many people returned and fell sick or even have died as I saw all their memorial stones that their families had put up on the way up. Some are even missing and they have missing person posters all over for them.
I do feel that it was everything I hoped for as it did allow me to feel courageous, strong and have a sense of freedom I yearend for. I was able to prove to myself that whatever I set my mind to is possible, and to see that in action at E.B.C. in the physical sense was very uplifting. At times I was not sure I would make it but I kept saying my mantras and thinking of Babaji (divine :-)) all the way up and kept thinking positively. Thoughts of family, the kids(doggies :-)), and friends kept me strong as well.
I have had a lot of time to reflect of course over the last 14 days in solitude and faced with physical challenges that were beyond what I could have imagined as far as the difficulty. I know that I am VERY grateful for my family and friends. I am a blessed person who is fortunate in so many ways. Looking at the Sherpa people and the lifestyle that most of the Nepalese people in the mountain regions are faced with I was again remained of that a “bad day” in the West truly is NOTHING in comparison with their lives. Some of the pictures will show how they live but just to illustrate further on average a porter carries about 100kgs that’s about 250ibs on their backs up to high altitude daily. The poor Yaks carry but to twice as much if not 3 times more. My total round trip was 200km which is about 124 mile which these people travel a few times a month easily by foot. Once you get to Lukla which is where the trek started from there are NO CARs so EVERTYTHING all the food all the products needed to survive including refrigerators, industrial electrical wire, doors you name it ALL has to be carried by Yaks or people. The things that are odd shaped such as I just mentioned and can not be tired to a Yak are carried by Sherpa people and it is AMAZING to see them walk with these things on their backs and climb on the terrain that is most of the time steep up and at high altitude. I do not think any of my pictures can accurately illustrate how challenging this is. I could definitely not complain with my little 12kg or 26ibs bag though I have to say that I did not see many people carry their own bag except a few seasoned male trekkers and even that was few. I was told by my guide that he did not think I would last beyond 1 day with my bag and he was impressed that I took it all the way up and down myself with 3kgs more after the shopping on the way down. Yeah!!! I may have a chance as a porter after all….NO WAY!!! I am certain that unfortunately these guys do not live that long.
I also met several Sherpa guys that have been up to Everest Summit and they carry about 35kgs about 77ibs on their backs for the expeditions that are held for the westerners. It is amazing how hard they work for very little pay. One guy was only 24years and he has already been on expeditions every years and made it all the way to summit 2 times. He says it is a hard 3 months of work and of course many do not make it. It is up to about 8800m about 30,000ft and of course they are on oxygen. It was nice to listen to this guy one night at one of the guest houses explain the whole expedition to me. They are quite courageous and strong as they start so young and are also not really professionally trained like the westerners that come down to do these expeditions. It is a special and interesting life they live the Sherpa people here in Nepal. I am lucky that since I came during such a low tourist season I got to spend some time with the locals and that I was at Base Camp alone and Kalapather without tons of tourist being right in front of me or behind me. In that aspect the freezing cold was TOTALLY worth the solitude I got for it. I have no regrets. I am happy I made it back alive and in one piece.
Well guys I invited the New Year here in Nepal Kathmandu with some crazy Norwegians :-) and an English couple. It was fun we danced and I was believe it or not SOBER the entire night, I promise :-). I kept my wow so far I have until October 2010 no alcohol… I think I passed one of the hardest tests which is on New Year’s Eve. I was thinking of you guys last night and sending you all my love and energy. I wish that 2010 brings all of you joy and peace. I miss you and look forward to when I see you in person and can give you hugs. Be safe and have lots of fun on New Years Eve those of you that are still in 2009.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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